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Available for Nonprofit, Governmental, Public Education, or Tribal Organizations
If you would like to start an organic garden for your program participants and lack the expertise to do so here is the opportunity you have been waiting for.
Plan can be adapted for community, demonstration, educational, or food closet gardens.
Site visits are scheduled for four to six weeks, and will take you through site evaluation, soil preparation, layout, planting, and tending the garden. (Short evaluation and planning visits can also be scheduled prior to making a commitment to the program.) Initial follow up will be provided over the Internet. Additional (or alternative) site visits can be scheduled to cover problem solving, harvesting, cooking, preserving, and seed saving; as well as developing the garden ecosystem. Participation is limited to10 individuals. You will need at least 5 dedicated volunteers or staff people to help get the garden established and keep it going.
1. Site Evaluation. One or Two Sessions (in field)
I prefer to view sites that have not been mown, tilled, or watered—unless they are normally maintained as lawn or part of a landscape. Lawn or landscape areas should be maintained in their normal condition prior to the site evaluation. We can learn a lot about the soil quality, drainage, and potential pest and disease problems by viewing weeds, lawn, and landscape plants as they are normally growing. Please choose a site that has not had any chemicals applied for at least one year. Sites that have significant standing or flowing water during raining seasons are not idea; however, sometimes this can be remediated.
A. If multiple garden sites are available, we will compare them for soil quality, water availability, drainage, sun exposure, protection from wind, and thermal mass--and then select the best available site for the garden.
B. Once the garden site is selected, or if there is only one site available, we will evaluate its qualities and resources and develop a plan to best utilize them for our garden. Soil qualities and preparation essentials will be covered. A list of possible animal, pest, and disease impacts for the area and a needs list will also be developed. Volunteers will be given the task of mapping the areas of sun and shade at various times of day. If someone is familiar with the site and knows about things like standing water, parched ground, or migrating wildlife that may affect the site in different seasons, this information will be taken into account.
2. Finding Cheap Supplies. One session and then a break of 3 days for follow up (in classroom)
We will brainstorm possible sources for our needs, develop request letters and print them on letter head, and go out into the community and collect as much as we can at little or no cost. This session will include our garden site needs, as well as needs for seed starting supplies. We should each plan to allow a week to make requests and follow through on them. How to make requests and follow through will be covered.
3. Develop Time Line. One session with follow up (in classroom)
We will evaluate what we have collected; make an action plan for the remaining tools and supplies necessary, delegate tasks for collecting those supplies.
4. Plan Garden Layout. One Session (can be on the same day as # 3) (at garden)
Design garden beds based on soil depth, light exposure, water source(s), drainage, and needs of participant gardeners and visiting public. If garden will have multiple uses those uses need to be incorporated into the design. We will layout our beds and talk about what will be planted in each area and why. Paths will be discussed and planned. If there is a budget for nursery starts, we will discuss what plants would be useful to seek out for our garden.
5. Develop soil preparation plan. One session (at garden)
To till or not, is only one question. I practice and advocate no till gardening, but sometimes, as part of the establishment of a new garden, tilling can be practical and beneficial. However, in small spaces and in some soils, it can be very detrimental. Soil preparation can also involve mowing or weed whacking; hoeing and hand pulling weeds; bending weeds to the ground, stomping them flat, and covering with layers of cardboard or newspaper (and weighing them down with rocks or other objects); spreading mulch; hand digging compost into the soil; and /or burying organic matter in pits or trenches. If you have enough space you can try different techniques in different beds and compare the results. A list of additional supplies and possible sources will be developed and volunteers assigned to the task of collecting these supplies.
6. Begin Soil Preparation according to plan above. One to several sessions (at garden)
This may take several sessions depending on the size of the garden, whether mulch or other organic matter needs to be collected, and the number of volunteers.
7. Start seeds. One to several sessions (at garden)
Some seeds are better started in six packs, and others are better started right where they are to grow. We will discuss the variability’s and get our garden started. If there is a budget for nursery starts, they can be incorporated at this time. As we make selections or nursery plants and plant our seeds we will discuss the roles each plant plays, not only in our diet, but in the garden ecosystem. Our newly planted beds will be festooned with sticks and bits of brush to keep scratching birds and cats from disturbing our seeds.
8. Tend Garden. Twice or three times daily until seedlings are established, then daily until the rainy season begins. Rainy season gardens need tended at least once a week.
We will identify weeds and other volunteers and control them as needed; by hand pulling, mulching, or hoeing. Problems will be identified and solutions found. Seed beds will be kept moist but not soggy. Garden seedlings will be identified and celebrated. Once I am off site, we can accomplish seedling identification and problem solving using FaceBook and digital photography. Follow up visits can be scheduled as needed.
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Notes for spring gardens:
In cold winter/short growing seasons the visit should be planned after the ground is expected to be thawed and free of snow. Depending on the length of the season we may stick with the cool season crops mentioned below for the first year.
If your summer night time temperatures dip below freezing, many garden crops can still be grown. Most greens and roots do well in cool and freezing temperatures. Peas and fava beans can also be grown. Fabulous roasted parsnips and crisp fresh cabbage can be enjoyed fresh from the garden almost everywhere.
In frost free areas gardens can be started at any time of the year, however plant selection will vary by season.
Notes for fall and winter gardens:
Gardens in temperate areas with occasional freezing and shallow snow cover are right up my alley. I have had winter gardens in these areas all my life. They are best started in September, but can be started as late as October.
Xeric gardens (no irrigation) in areas subject to intense winter freezing and snow cover, should be considered experimental. I have the information to get started, but we will all be learning by trial and error. Fall and winter gardens in cold winter areas are best started in August, but may be successful if started in September.
In frost free areas gardens can be started at any time. I have gardened in Southern California, year around. I am happy to help establish gardens in southern climates.
My fees for this program are negotiable; however,the additional scheduling fees mentioned on the Fees page will apply. Please contact me for more information, supplies list, and other particulars. harvest95546@yahoo.com
You will find an extensive collection of my gardening articles in the archives at:
http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/ Links to additional articles can be found at:
http://www.HarvestMcCampbell.com |